The Town of Moshi... Tuesday, February 9

Donna and I woke up earlier than everyone else this morning. We stepped outside the tall iron hotel gates which surround (and hide ...and protect) the property to see before us a "typical morning in Moshi". Across the dusty road are inactive railroad tracks, and the local people all meander into town along these tracks - the most darling little schoolboys and girls dressed in their navy pants and white collared shirt uniforms carrying their tiny backpacks head off to school - no moms driving carpool here!

Many men were heading into town on their rickety bikes, sometimes carrying a lady on the back, or a huge pile of grasses, or firewood. The women walked lazily along the tracks, dressed in colorful and bold-print dresses, many with buckets, piles of towels, or woven baskets on their heads. Sometimes they even carry their shoes...on their heads! Some don't mind having their photo taken - most turned away. Sometimes they ask to get paid. There were women whose heads were covered in the Muslim scarves. Old men were draped in saris and carried a long stick to help them along.

The dirt road was very primitive and had speed bumps created out of mounds of dirt. Dust blew everywhere as only a few cars or tourist vans zoomed by, honking to warn people, goats, and chickens and roosters to get out of their way. Except for the few folks in the vans, no one seemed in much of a hurry to get wherever they were going -stopping to greet each other, have a chat, share a joke, then amble on their way. Donna and I had come outside as we had heard the top of Kilimanjaro was visible, and indeed it was! There majestically before us was the snowcapped top breaking through a thick layer of clouds. It was like the summit was just peeking at us, wondering when we'd be by to visit!

It was still very early so Donna and I decided to go into the open-air communal dining room, set up with long wooden tables and chairs. We had Kili coffee with "fresh from the cow" watery milk. As we took in the morning sunshine, a tall, good looking young man chose to join US for breakfast (note he could have sat anywhere, but he chose to sit with the two over 50 chick-a-dees from the Palisades). He is a medical student in Sweden who had just summitted Kili the day before. He regaled us with his story of how sick he got with stomach cramps, throwing up and a piercing headache, all the while saying he was glad he did it, and advised us to "just put one foot in front of the other." OK - will do. (Yeesh what have I gotten myself into?)

Before long, everyone was up and ready to set out for a hike nearby. We walked through a very dense jungle with trees that had leaves the size of pillows. Then we broke out into vast rice fields where sprinkled within the tall skinny green stalks, the owners were tending their plots. I saw one guy weeding far out in the field while talking on his cell phone! Then we crossed into the jungle again and were very excited to spot high up in the trees, many black-and-white Colobus Monkeys as well as some Blue Monkeys. It was very very cool! We also spent a lot of time trying to photograph the many colorful butterflies that flitted from flower to flower.

Back to the hotel we headed for a quick shower and then we jumped in a van, as we had all been invited to lunch at our head guide's home - his name is God Listen, and we call him "Goddy". He and Bill enjoyed sharing Bill's I-Pod as they split ear buds and sang Paul Simon Graceland tunes on the way through town. We sat down for lunch in his small, modest but very comfortable home and were served his wife's specialty... Banana Soup. I am telling the absolute truth! It was served from a big pot of what looked like gravy with long bananas floating around in it. I was more than a little hesitant to try it but was also very hungry after our hike, so I went for it - actually it was quite good. We said to Goddy's wife "Asante Sana" or "Thank you very much". There was freshly picked mango and sweet pineapple for dessert. And to drink - Orange Fanta!

Bill asked to use the restroom and disappeared for a few minutes. Upon his return, Donna whispered to him "Is the bathroom ok? I mean, is it clean and all?" Bill said "Oh yes, yes...it's totally fine". So Donna disappeared for a few minutes only to return and give Bill a dirty look. I inquired what's up and she said "The toilet was a hole in the ground". Bill was ha ha ha-ing across the room.

So it was MY idea to go into town and do a little souvenir shopping. Everyone else thought "well ok", so back we got into the van and we bumped and jostled our way into the hot and bustling village of Moshi. It was full of many little shops selling everything you could imagine - mops next to wooden giraffes, soap next to beaded bracelets. Only one shop sold a carved wooden cross which I should have bought to add to my cross collection at home, but didn't. The entire trip I never saw another cross. Everywhere we went we were hounded by the locals to buy their paintings, carvings, or jewelry. Everything is bought by negotiating for the price. It was pretty overwhelming as these salesman did not want to hear "no thank you". Bill and Frank remarked that their persistence and drive would serve them well on Wall Street if they could find their way to NYC.

Bill and I broke away from the group and had Goddy take us through the huge open-air vegetable and fish market. He said we were where the "rich" people shopped for their food since this market was covered with a tarp and not just set in the blistering sun. We squeezed our way through narrow stalls full of garden grown vegetables, gigantic bags of what looked like tiny smoked sardines, and crates of live chickens and roosters. It was very dark inside and many of the stalls were tucked into corners where there was very little light - not a great place to spend your day. The noises were loud and sing-songy as the vendors tried to convince you to buy their produce and not the guy's next door. I tried to take a few photos but the people got angry so I stopped. Our guide was like "no big deal" but I felt I was being intrusive so I tried to restrain myself, but it was difficult because there was so many strange and colorful things I wanted to photograph! Meanwhile back at the shop where the rest of our group was, things were getting ugly as a few purchases had been made but the store keepers thought we should buy more. Everyone was glad (and relieved) when the van returned (to the rescue!) to pick us up.

Back at what now felt like a safe haven (our hotel), we got all our climbing stuff organized, then headed off to a buffet dinner topped off with a round of Cokes and Fantas in the bottle (no cans here). Everyone went to bed early except for me as I had taken a nap when we got back from the village so now I'm wide awake! Tomorrow we leave a 8am to begin our ascent - we start at 6,000 feet hiking on the UMBWE route (officially opened in 1963), which according to the guidebook I just glanced at tonight is "a very steep, wild and exhilarating climb". Eeekkk! After 4-6 hours we will set up tent and sleep at Cave Camp. There are no sleeping huts on this route.

Following dinner tonight, we had a long and detailed discussion on techniques to employ should you need to use the non-existent latrine in the middle of the night (or actually whenever). We all brought our own toilet paper. Again I ask - what have I gotten myself into? Until tomorrow...