Off we head bright and early from the Springlands Hotel Moshi in a Land Rover from Zara Safari Tours. We are now down to a smaller group of 5 - Bill, Cindy, Donna, Reid (Frank's brother in law) and guide Kurt Wedberg. We drove though the bustling village of Moshi and headed out into the countryside.
After about an hour, we passed through the town of Arusha which seems bigger and busier than Moshi...there were a few modest hotels, but mostly the streets were lined with small crudely built shops or stalls, fronted by a wide expanse of packed dirt (no paved sidewalks - later in the day it rained and what a mess) Side streets were filled with crudely made houses made of wood or locally made bricks (the deep red soil is apparently very good for brick production). Donna noticed a cow languishing inside a house. Ladies sat on the side of the road selling roasted corn on the cob, fruit (mostly the ever popular bananas), and vegetables. Goats roamed about either on their own, or in a group led by a young boy. Donkeys were tied to a tree. To our Western eyes, it was all a very dirty and dusty scene. I did not see anything resembling a grocery store or department store. On the day we drove through Arusha it was "Market Day" and a huge area resembling a Flea Market sprouted up where hundreds of people gathered to buy their groceries and such for the week. Only a few of the women dressed in Western business attire, while most dressed in colorful fabrics draped around themselves. Young mothers carried their babies in cloth pouches on their backs - there were no strollers or carriages. We noticed that people got from here to there by foot or bicycle and occasionally rode very crowded busses/vans. We saw very few people driving their own car - the cars on the road were Toyotas or Land Rovers from the Safari Tour companies. I think I saw 2 or 3 taxi's the whole time. Very young children walked by themselves or with a friend along the side of the busy highways - it made us feel uneasy to see such little ones so close to the speeding jeeps. There were many signs on billboards and the back of big busses with pictures of Obama and the American Flag. There is a lot of pride amongst the African people that Obama is our President.
Our first stop was at The Cultural Heritage Center, where we did a little souvenir shopping in the fabulous gift shops- Bill bought a pile of t-shirts, and I bought a few this & thats! Donna bought a wooden bowl with wooden serving spoons topped with giraffes. Everyone was searching for the perfect gift for their friends back home. On down the road we made another quick stop at a very different type of souvenir shop - more locally made items and carvings. After a quick picnic box lunch we headed off to Lake Manyara National Park located in The Great Rift Valley for our first safari experience. Note: The Great Rift Valley is where the famous paleontologist Louis and Mary Leakey, and their son Richard conducted their fossil finding expeditions. It was in 1976-1977 when Mary Leakey found what she considered the most exciting find of her career... human-like fossilized footprints, which led to a changing of scientific opinion as to when humans evolved to walking on two feet.
We entered the park in the early afternoon which is the best time to view the animals. The first wild animals we saw were baboons who seemed very comfortable walking across the road or sitting hunched on the side of the road...we were so excited at first but by the end of the safari we had seen so many that it was kinda no big deal any longer! Apparently the local people don't take to the baboons, as they are similar to the deer who wander into the New Jersey suburbs and eat all the plants and shrubs. There is no fencing around the park, and occasionally the animals will wander into town - especially the baboons.
We drove on a dirt road through a forested landscape and what did we see next but a group of giraffes, right by the side of the road! We were so close to them we could have almost touched them, but you are definately not allowed out of your vehicle! We stopped at an area that was a large pond and saw a huge flock of flamingos. We saw zebras, wildebeests, and cape buffalos. As we headed out of the park what did we see but about 5 - 6 elephants in the bushes right by the side of the road. They look enormous close up with their shining white tusks and huge flapping ears. There was a baby elephant also and we were all ohhhing & ahhhhing! Snap Snap Snap went our cameras...
Upon leaving the Lake Manyara National Park we drove about an hour to a new hotel, a sister hotel to Springlands Moshi, called Highview Hotel Karatu. This two story hotel was quite lovely, situated on the top of a hill overlooking many acres of farmland. We all thought it would be nice to have spent a few days there just relaxing by the swimming pool! The hotel is run and staffed by members of the Maasai tribe.
Here I must divert and talk a bit about this "most authentic ethnic tribe" of Tanzania & Kenya. In the 1994 census, it was reported that 430,000 Maasai lived in Tanzania. You first notice the men and women of this tribe by their distinctive dress, which today consists of red sheets(shuka), wrapped around the body and loads of beaded jewelry placed around the neck and arms. Men and women wear this clothing, and it can vary in color. Men carry tall sticks or speers. Ear piercing and the stretching of earlobes in women, accompanied by large hoop earrings, are considered a part of Maasai beauty. Women shave their heads as do the men. The Maasai often walk barefoot or wear simple sandals made of cow hide.
When we first saw the Maasai we were startled by their simple yet striking dress and strong, serious demenor. Bill shared some of his knowledge of this tribe, telling us how they are a semi-nomadic people who, as they migrated, attacked their neighbors and raided cattle. In the early 1900's, 2/3 of their land was taken away by the British to create ranches for settlers and wildlife preserves. The Maasai are known as one of the world's last great warrior cultures, and it is said to "become a man, you must kill a lion". Their traditional lifestyle centers around their cattle which constitutes the primary source of food. On the drive to the hotel we saw their houses which are circular huts made of branches, mud, sticks, grass, and cow dung, and built by the women! They are situated in clusters of about 10 huts within the middle of vast farmland. Compared to the busy & dirty cities, the Maasai villages look quite peaceful and simple in nature. The Maasai are traditionally polygamous, but polyandry is also practiced! Controversial circumcision for young women and men still is practiced, even though it is outlawed by modern legislation. With the western ways rapidly creeping into their lifestyle, some Maasai are turning to employment as security guards, watchmen, and tourist guides.
OK back on track - The Highview Hotel was a little fancier than the Springlands... but that's about all I noticed as I was sleepwalking at this point. About an hour earlier my mosquito bites were driving me crazy, and Donna remarked "Does anybody have any Benadryl?" and lo & behold Kurt had a few pills. So in desperation I swallowed 2. I soon felt fine, and the itching subsided and I was a happy lady. Then... poof, I was fast asleep. All I remember about arriving at the Highview Hotel was being carried up to my room by dear husband Bill as I snoozed alongside him. I was plopped onto the bed and was fast asleep! Bill, Donna, Kurt, and Reid went off to the dining room for what they said was a delicious dinner. After a few hours I woke up from my slumber wondering where I was! Lucky for me, Bill returned soon thereafter from dinner, and filled me in.
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